pedalpanam

[MEX stands for Estado de Mexico, or the State of Mexico.  For clarification on the difference between Mexico City, the State of Mexico and the Federal District (the country of Mexico's capital), click here].

I set out today from the old cobblestoned town of Tlalpujahua, famous for its nearby mine that operated for many centuries.  I had used satellite pictures to find a long way to Atlacomulco.  I found a route that would take me up to 10,100 feet, and down into the valley I would have come through had I gone through Angangueo to see the butterflies as I had originally hoped for.  But the recent flooding and mudslides have devastated the area, the worst disaster the town remembers.  I had my heart set on going there, and I will be back one day.  Unfortunately it seems as though assistance to this community is severely lacking at the moment.

Continue reading Atlacomulco, MEX

[MICH stands for Michoacan, the 5th state so far in Mexico on bicycle]

Well I’ve not gone too far since last updating 3 weeks ago (but I have done my best to keep my location on the map updated).  After stopping by in Patzcuaro on my way back from Mexico City, I returned to Guadalajara, where my bike was patiently waiting for me (and with a nice layer of dust).  I thought I’d be eager to get back on the road, but found myself in Guadalajara for another week and a half.  My host Prisca, who’s had over 50 couchsurfing visitors from around the world in the past years, hosts a potluck dinner every Wednesday.  Out of town visitors and other Guadalajara couchsurfing hosts come around, and if you are her guest, you’ll probably be asked by Prisca to cook something (WORST HOST EVER!*).  A French couple, JC and Gaelle, backpacking around the Americas had shown up that morning, so we made a meal together.  A lot of fun people!

*Inside joke, but I’m sure you understood the sarcasm.

Continue reading Morelia, MICH

My brief stay in Patzcuaro, in the state of Michoacan on my way back to Guadalajara was a pilgrimage of sorts.  I had already been there twice on school trips.  One evening during my last visit about 9 years ago, we were served sopa tarasca (Tarascan soup).  This delicious bean and tomato based broth is served with crunchy tortilla strips and topped with sour cream and fresh cheese.  This simple dish had an awakening effect, changing my undecided feelings toward Mexico into something profound.  You could say that evening I realized that I loved this country, especially the small towns with their little squares, cobblestone streets, and majestic cathedrals.  This is the colonial Mexico that I had a hard time finding when I first crossed the border, where I only encountered grimy young highway towns that had little soul.

As juniors in highschool, we were allowed to explore the town in the evening unsupervised.  As an adolescent, the feeling of independence was huge, despite the fact that we had to be back before curfew.  I wanted to go back and see the town again, and of course find some sopa tarasca, which I did, and which was as delicious as I remembered it.

[Continue reading for more photos.  Click here to see the whole Patzcuaro flickr album]

Continue reading Sopa Tarasca

After two and a half weeks in Mexico City, I am making my way back to Guadalajara on bus.  I’ve decided to break the trip up, and will be getting as far as Morelia and then Patzcuaro today, and then the rest of the way on Tuesday.

Aside from vendors and beggars, Mexico City’s underground Metro train also has its share of creative performers looking for some spare change. In the past few days I witnessed some singing, a clown, a comedy routine, and today on my way to the bus terminal, a young man walking on shards of glass…

As and aside, I am writing this from the bus that is taking me from Mexico City to Morelia, which offers WiFi internet on board.  How the world is changing!

[Naucalpan is but one of the many smaller city entities in the state of Mexico that makes up the metropolitan area of Mexico City.  The capital of Mexico is the Distrito Federal, much like Washington DC is the capital of the USA.  The state of Mexico borders most of the Federal District.]

I last updated over two weeks ago (sorry!) from Guadalajara.  After a bus ride into Mexico City, I spent Christmas with my friends the Petersons.  The next day I met up with my friend Karla, who I’ve known since grade school and then in Chicago.  I accompanied her and her family for a few days in the coastal state of Veracruz.  We returned to Mexico City in time for New Years.  Starting on New Year’s eve, the next 48 hours were a continuous celebration as relatives came to visit and eat.  Karla’s family has been very welcoming and I have enjoyed participating in all the holiday festivities.

I’ve worked on getting photos from my last few days in Arizona and then Sonora, the first state I crossed in Mexico.  I have plenty more photos from Mexico to sort through but in the meantime here is a sample of sights so far:

Continue reading Naucalpan, MEX